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Look no further for all the information on the Axarquia that you need. If you fancy a day trip away from the coast while you are here on the Costa del Sol then here are the 5 routes of the Axarquia, Andalucia´s hidden secret!
RUTA DE LA PASA or the route of the raisin is steeped in history, you can almost hear the cry STAND AND DELIVER as one of the most feared outlaws, El Bizco, gallops towards you on his black Andalucian stallion, snorting, foaming at the mouth and stamping its mighty hoofs! El Bizco, now long dead, has a museum in his honour in the village of El Borge in the house where he was born on September 2nd long ago in the nineteenth century and its one of the places you can stop for refreshment or even the night on your journey following the route of the raisin.
We start safely back in the 21st century at Moclinejo some 450 metres above sea level, 20 klm from Málaga and 32 klms from Vélez-Málaga, if you drive into the village itself there are plenty of places to sample the delicious local wine, but be warned its stronger than you think! First of all to get to the village turn off the autovia el Mediterráneo at klm 257 for Torre de Benagalbón and drive up past the village to Moclinejo which should take about 10 minutes. Just before the village is the VistalMar Hotel where you should stop for refreshment and take in the magnificent views from the terrace. The route leads on up the steep and winding road towards Almáchar with breaktaking views. Marking the entrance to the village a huge bunch of grapes looms out of a fountain. Once there a good snack is a handful of raisins as you walk its steep streets. On the first Saturday of September this village throbs with tourists who come to sample the cold garlic soup at the annual Festival of Ajo Blanco. We continue our route by turning left at the bridge up towards El Borge where apart from our bandits birth house don´t miss the parish church of Our Lady of the Rosary on the Plaza Mirador a Gothic-Renaissance structure of the sixteenth century. Driving onwards and upwards we are now only a few kilometres from our next stop The Fountain of Paradise, Cútar, known for its oil and raisins. This village remembers its Moorish origins every year at the Monfi Festival where history, culture and traditions unfold in the streets with displays of falconry, music, tea ceremonies and belly dancing. The Moorish rebels called Monfi resisted being evicted from a land they had inhabited for eight centuries. Our next port of call is the famous mountain top village of Comares. In summer when the river bed is dry you can drive from Cútar down to the river and come off again at Salto del Negro bridge, turn left and then right up the 7 klm road to Comares. For the less adventurous the route continues down into Benamargosa, turn left after the bridge and continue until you see the left turn up to Comares. The first watering hole on the way up to the village is the Mayors Bar, Atalaya where you can sample delightful local cuisine while taking in magnificent vistas down to the coast at Torre del Mar. Further up in the main square do stop to take photos of the view and see if you can spot the villages of Cútar, Iznate, Benamocarra, Vélez-Málaga, Torre del Mar, Benamargosa, Canillas de Aceituno and Alcaucin. Whilst up there make sure to stroll into the beautiful courtyard of the Molino de los Abuelos Hotel for a well deserved cool drink before descending back towards Málaga and the last village of the route Totalán. To get to Totalán you need to turn left just before Olías. Totalán is a place whose gastronomy is closely linked to the Mediterranean diet with Gazpachuelo, a stew of chickpeas, Gazpacho and the famous Chanfaina stew with peppers, sausage, black pudding, pork and offal. Stomach full it´s time to head back to the coast but don´t forget the shopping centre at the entrance back onto the autovia Centro Commercial Rincon de la Victoria where if you are not already too exhausted you can shop ´til you drop!
Our next route, the La Ruta del Sol y del Aguacate takes us on a 75 klm trip through beautiful countryside and six municipalities, Rincon de la Victoria, Macharaviaya, Vélez-Málaga, Benamargosa, Benamocarra and Iznate. We start our tour in the seaside resort of Rincon de la Victoria, just 12 klms from Málaga and 21 klms from Vélez-Málaga, at the far south westerly point of the Axarquia. Here we find tropical vegetation and large expanses of sugar cane. Mangos , Papayas, Custard Apples and of course Avocados thrive in this area due to the exceptional microclimate which is created by the mountains of Almirara, Alhama and the Natural Park of Tejeda. A good place to visit before the tour starts is the Cueva del Tesoro in Rincón de Victoria which is the only marine grotto in Europe. Back into daylight and with the sun once again proving this area has the best climate in Europe we take the N-340 coastal road for 3 klms before turning left onto a 9 klm climb to Macharaviaya, founded in the sixteenth century on a former Moorish settlement, this charming village with its cobbled streets has enchanted visitors who love romance as well as artists and artisans who have made it their home. The mid-nineteenth century modernist poet and writer Salvador Rueda was born close by in Benaque and the noble Galvéz family lived there in the 18th century, it was the birthplace of José de Gálvez who became Marquis of Sonora and Minister for the Indies, his ashes can still be found in an urn in the parish church. On the way back down to the coast do be sure to stop at the little coffee shop opposite the golf driving range, they do a great cappuccino! To continue we go back onto the N-340 heading east until we come to the coastal resort of Torre del Mar from where it is just a short drive or tram ride to our next stop the capital of the Axarquía, Vélez-Málaga. This busy, bustling town is steeped in history and needs a page of its own to tell of its many attractions, infact the old town was declared a historic artistic monument in November 1970 and a must see are the beautiful paintings of local artist Evaristo Guerra in the Hermitage de los Remedios, patron of Vélez. A real work of love. We move out of the centre of Vélez and take the C-335 past Trapiche, turning left at Bar El Cruce, our next stop Benamargosa is signposted as being just 8 klms. Opposite the turn for Axarquia airport a track leads up to the Buddhist Stupa which is also worth a visit. If you are driving a 4 x 4 or quad bike you can drop down from the mountain top after visiting the Stupa right into the centre of the village of Benamargosa but the normal road is interesting enough with its evergreen plantations of avocados, mangos and citrus fruits, strikingly verdant this veritable oasis strongly contrasts with the surrounding dry hills. As you drive into the village, just before the bridge on the right hand side is the 16th century parish church of La Encarnación. Opposite the church is a bar which makes fresh churros (long thin strands of donuts) on its front terrace which are very tasty with hot chocolate and not at all fattening! The route then retraces itself back to the C-335 in the direction of Vélez-Málage until a right hand turn takes you the 4 klms to Benamocarra. To make this more interesting you can just drive onto the dry river bed at Benamargosa and take it all the way to Benamocarra, infact you can follow it all the way to our final stop Iznate. In the summer the dry river beds are used as roads and even a normal car can take this river bed route to Benamocarra and Iznate. Benamocarra boasts a 16th century parish church of Santa Ana and a new fountain in the main square where all the village men stand and while away the hours. To finish our tour we continue along the 5 klms winding road to Iznate a steep village with stunning views of the mountain ranges, breathtaking at the best of time! Its 16th century church of San Gregorio was rebuilt after the Moorish rebellion and restored 50 years ago. At the entrance to the village are lovely gardens with new gym equipment put there to entice the villagers into keeping fit! The village is famous for its Muscatel grapes and every year these are celebrated in August at the Fiesta de la Uva Moscatel which takes place on the first Saturday of the month where the locals firstly attend mass and then enjoy a flamenco festival and free local produce. The route finishes in Iznate and to get back to the coast you just continue on the same road down past the small village of Cajiz and under the autovia following signs to the playa.
The third route of the Axarquia La Ruta del Sol y del Vino takes us in search of Sun and Wine, a tourist attraction to be sure! The hills of the Axarquia are laden with vines defying gravity which produce both the Malaga raisins as well as the sweet wine the region has been famous for since Roman times. Be warned though, if you are offered a glass by a local farmer straight from a plastic bottle it is very potent! strong and sweet it tastes a bit like sherry. The 55 kilometre Ruta del Sol y del Vino takes us through Algarrobo, Sayalonga, Cómpeta, Canillas de Albaida, Torrox, Nerja and Frigiliana. Algarrobo and Torrox are both coastal and inland with beaches prepared for tourists and villages retaining much of their Moorish inheritance. We start our tour by driving along the N-340 to Algarrobo Costa and then turning 4 klms inland to the Pueblo itself. Here the streets as in most villages are narrow and winding so it is best to park the car and walk, especially if you arrive there at 2pm when all the inhabitants drive home to lunch and you have to squeeze into doorways to let them pass, wheels screeching on the hot tarmac! 5 klms further up the road at an altitude of 355 metres Sayalonga boasts a unique circular cemetery and a pretty square which you can see from the road with bars and restaurants tempting you to stop for refreshment, a good idea as it is a further 9 klms to Cómpeta where the winding road takes you past an unusual structure reminiscent of Gaudi and on arriving in the village there is a Gaudi like lookout point decorated with glazed mosaic tiles. Whilst in Cómpeta a trip to the wine museum which is also a bar and restaurant is a must! As is the central Plaza Almijara, next to the gold domed Church of Asunción where you can while away an hour or so in the shops, street cafe´s and tapas bars. The village is famous for its honey, pottery and vino de terreno. Every year on August 15th the town celebrates this sweet wine in La Noche del Vino where 1500 litres are consumed by merry townsfolk and tourists alike. Back on the road the route continues to the next village of Canillas de Albaida just 3klms away on the slopes of the Sierra de Tejeda and Almijara mountains on the borders of Malaga and Granada. This is an area protected by the Andalusian government and if you are lucky you can spot eagles, wild boar and mountain goats amongst the Pine and Oak trees. In the main square you can find the 16th century parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Expectación and before you leave do visit the Arab stone bridge that joins the Cájules and Turvilla rivers. To continue our route we have to go back on the road to Cómpeta and then a further 15 kilometres down to Torrox, the second village with both a Pueblo and Coastal resort. If you want to stretch your legs after the drive down from Cómpeta then take the paseo de maritime from El Faro in a westerly direction and maybe even dive into the waves to refresh yourself before drying off and following the N-340 east to Nerja. Just before finishing our tour in this picturesque sea side town we head inland for 6 kilometres to sample the delights of Frigiliana, one of the prettiest of the Pueblos Blancos and as such the winner of many national and regional awards for conservation and beauty. Here you can find many tiny shops selling local handicrafts including linen, lace, fine basket ware and ceramics. The village has two distinct centres, one of medieval and Moorish origin and the other a recent construction in keeping with its historic architecture. Finally, the last stop on our route of Sun and Wine takes us back to the town of Nerja with its labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets, reminiscent of the Lanes in Brighton or The Shambles in York. Here you can shop ´til you drop but don´t forget to visit the Balcón de Europa, the famous Burriana Beach and the Nerja Caves which are actually situated in Maro the small village 3 klms to the east of Nerja.
The 4th Axarquia tour follows La Ruta Mudéjar . We drive 75 klms through 5 municipalities in search of Muslim architecture which developed from 12th to 16th centuries. Not really a pure style it was constructed for Christians by the Moors and native Andalusians who did not convert to Christianity but nevertheless remained in the area. It was such an interesting look that many of the elements continue to be incorporated into Spanish architecture today. The expression Mudejar Style was first used in 1859 by José Amador de los Ríos who was an acheologist and Andalusian historian. Typical Mudejar materials used in construction were poor but useful, allowing buildings to be constructed quickly, cheaply and most of all attractively, using bricks, glazed ceramic tiles and plaster. The architecture itself showed a strong Muslim influence with arches, bell towers and wooden ceilings often ornately carved as seen in many churches in the area. The starting point of this route is in the village of Arenas and to get there the easiest way is through Vélez-Málaga on the A117 which is 10 klm of winding country road full of almonds, olives and vines. If you happen to drive there on 12th October the village will be celebrating its Mule Fair so you probably won´t get much further and may as well enjoy the free paella and festivities. The Mudejar influence in Arenas can be seen in the 16th century parish church of Santa Catalina. Archez is the next village on our route and to get there we pass Daimalos where you may wish to fill your water bottle from its Fountain of Love! and Corumbela , to me the name conjures images of pantomime fairies or cats, but the Romans called it La Paloma (pigeon or dove). Today the village is part of the municipality of Sayalonga and an interesting monument is the church with its Mudejar style minaret. So now to Archez itself which sits on the Sayalonga river valley and the foothills of the Tejeda and Almijara. From its arab past only one jewel remains, the minaret of the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, it stands 15 metres high and dates from the 15th century. It was declared a national historic artistic monument in 1979 by royal decree and is decorated with entwined diamond shapes with curved edges which are cut away above the brick. Lets pause before continuing along this historic route and soak up the atmosphere along with the sunshine on the terrace of Venta el Curro (closed on Thursdays) overlooking the river. Driving inland and upwards to 579 metres our next stop is Salares, situated on the very edge of the Tejeda National Park and Game reserve. This white gem of a village is steeped in history and was inhabited by the Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians. Once known as Salaria Bastitanorum by the Romans the urban design of this tiny village has changed little since Muslim times. You can stretch your limbs here by using the free outdoor gymnasium equipment before climbing up to the Parish Church of Santa Ana, built in Mudejar style on the site of an ancient mosque. Continuing our climb up towards Mount Maroma, at 689 metres above sea level we discover Sedella, so named, according to the town hall website, because Queen Isabella when told of the fight between Christians and Muslims at an area known as Arroyo de la Matanza said, Sé de ella (I know about it) After parking the car and walking up into the village one of the first places of interest is the public laundry or wash house situated between three green trimmed arches, which before the invention of washing machines was in constant use by the towns women. Onwards and upwards to the main square and the most unique building in town, the Casa del Torreón or Tower House, Mudejar in origin and the former home of the Mayor of Donceles , Lord of Sedella, it was built in the 16th century in the Mudejar style over a quadrangular floor plan. The tower has twin arches on Renaissance columns with a beam supported hip roof. Majestically sitting at highest point in the village up a flight of 12 steps is the church of San Andrés with its square two part tower and octagonal belfry, the only vestige of the original 16th century building. Before our final stop on the Mudejar route, just 8 klms further on from Sedella you may like to take a refreshing dip in a cool spring as you pass through the Ragihes Nature Reserve with its waterfall and picnic area before visiting Canillas de Aceituno. Be sure to take a sip of this pure water and discover its healing powers! At the top of the final village of our tour is the 16th century Gothic - Mudejar style church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario and the only remains of Arabic origen left in the centre of town are the tower known as the Reina Mora and a well next to the Huertezuelo fountain. Our tour over the best way back is to continue on the same road until you pick up the C-355 to Vélez-Málaga but before wending your way down again do stop to take in the magnificent views of the mountains, lake and distant coast, a real photo opportunity.
La Ruta del Aceite y de los Montes is the last of the 5 routes of the Axarquia and we travel once again back into bandit country so be prepared! Our first route on week 1 conjured images of El Bizco, galloping towards you on his black Andalucian stallion, snorting, foaming at the mouth and stamping its mighty hoofs! This route travels to Alfarnate where the most terrifying bandit of all El Tempranillo (the early one) threatened diners at the famous Venta de Alfarnate that was built at the end of the 17th century. He made them eat their wooden spoons and watched on as they cracked their teeth! The government set up the Guardia Civil in 1844 to try to stop bandit activities, some bandits even converted to become Guardia Civil themselves! When taking this 62.5 kilometre route in summer you will notice its a shade warmer than some of the other routes as this time we rise up deeper into the heart of the Axarquia through the mountain ranges that tower majestically above the pantano at Viñuela, silent keepers of the areas tumultuous past, guardians of its history through Palaeolithic times to the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks and Romans who all left their mark. The villages we drive through have kept their rich and varied legacies of past civilisations, their festivities when not religious are based on every day occurrences typical of their region like cultivating the vine for raisins or wine or celebrating their Moorish past. This route is 62.5 kilometres long and runs through the mountains in the north west of the Axarquia travelling through the municipalities of Viñuela, Alcaucin, Periana, Alfarnate, Alfarnatejo, Rio Gordo and Colmenar. We start our journey in Viñuela, 45 klms from Malaga, where in mid September a two day festival celebrates the raisins that are dried on the hillsides on huge beds that look like giants graves! The area is now most famous for its Pantano which was built in 1981 and although folklore has it that there is an entire village complete with church steeple at the bottom of the lake this is not true. A young Spaniard told me his grandmother had a house situated at the bottom and they were sad when it was flooded but agreed the area is now very beautiful because of it. Non motorised water sports, fishing and swimming are some activities enjoyed there during the summer. From Viñuela we travel north on the C-355 and then turn right at Puente Don Manuel, drive over the Puente (bridge) and turn left up to Alcaucin. This village has an annual fiesta on Halloween to celebrate the chestnut and an English owned restaurant Azafran Oasis which is open at the weekend and has a beautiful, relaxing terrace with views of Lake Viñuela. Currently on displaying is a new art exhibition, funds raised in aid of Love a Child foundation, supporting orphanages in Burma, Tibet and Ecuador, artists featured are Ann Westly and Jonathan Thornhill from Cútar village and Amanda Josiah from Frigiliana. Our third stop on this route is Periana, 13 klms from Alcaucin, to get there you can either drive down through Venta Baja and pick up the Periana road C-340 or drive back the way you came turning left at Puente don Manuel back onto the C- 355 and then left onto the C-340. The views from Periana are hard to beat, from here you can see mountains, lake and the distant coast. The name of Periana dates from 1761 but the town was rebuilt after an earthquake in 1884. Verdial Olive Oil is made in the village and sold far and wide. La Día del Aceite Verdial in late March is a festival to publicise this oil, extracted from the local verdial olive and pepared in traditional mills to produce a totally natural, fruity flavour. Moving on there are sulphurous Moorish baths at Baños de Vilo 2 klms north of the village and a museum of oil in Mondrón Periana a good place to stop before the climb up to the most northerly village in the Axarquía, Alfarnate. The drive here is spectacular with the rugged mountains of Enmedio, Palomera and Jobo and the peaks of Chamizo, Gallo and Vilo towering above, by contrast the land is flat and cultivated with farms dotted about and horses grazing contentedly. The streets in Alfarnate are wide and flat in total contrast to most Pueblos Blancos and the river Palancar divides it in two with 3 picturesque bridges joining it together again, a definite photo opportunity, as is the 16th century church of Santa Ana with its Mudejar minaret. Time to change horses, so to speak and stop for refreshment at the famous Venta de Alfarnate, mentioned earlier, with its museum and restaurant. If you visit the bar during winter a welcoming log fire will warm you before you are taken through behind the bar, past a prison cell complete with wax work bandit into the dining room where a delicious meal awaits you. We start our downward incline now to our final two villages. First Alfarnatejo, a small village with wide streets and 16th century church of Santo Cristo de Cabrilla, its square tower built in the Mudejar style of fired bricks. Bandits sheltered here in the many caves surrounding the area and it is easy when standing alone admiring the wonderful craggy mountain views to conjure them up again, but in a romantic way with an Antonio Banderas like character sweeping you off your feet and throwing you on the back of his horse. Its also a natural place to sit and meditate and one can almost hear the eerie music of Picnic at Hanging Rock! Or see the sad Indian from Peña de los Enamorados drifting past in search of his lost love. A local legend about an impossible love affair between a young Christian man from Antequera and a beautiful Moorish girl from nearby Archidona, who were driven to the top of the cliff by the Moorish soldiers, where, rather than renounce their love, chose to hurl themselves into the abyss. Shrugging off these ghosts of the past we drive on to our final destination, but first a strong dark cafe solo at the bar on the right in Pulgarin to bring us back to our senses! The route continues with a return to the C-340 turning right and on to Rio Gordo situated in a lush valley by the river Cueva. Here we can visit the Ethnographic Museum at Calle Iglesia where there are nine exhibition rooms open to the public, or the church itself the 16th century Virgen de Gracia. If you visit the village at the end of May you may be offered a local dish prepared from land snails cooked in stock and served with olives as the villagers celebrate Day of the Snail.
Are you searching for Spanish Property For Sale but don´t know the area? Below you will find information about some of the villages in the lovely Axarquia on the Costa del Sol, East of Malaga, where we have property for sale or rent. Click on an image or text to read more about the different areas.
Below is my A - Z of spanish villages, the first one being Pueblo el Fantasma or Village of the ghosts!
ACEBUCHAL
I discovered that there are many stories about this village, the most frequently told one being that it was where the resistance fighters against Franco hid and that eventually they were discovered and chased out of town. Others say that the villagers just left one day to find a better way of life but whatever the reason for its abandonment in 1949 it remained in ruins until 1998 when El Zumbo and his wife Virtudes returned and started to rebuild the village fulfilling a lifelong dream. The original village can be traced back to the mid 1700´s but archaeological finds and Roman and Arab coins prove earlier settlements.
El Zumbo and his family now own half the village they so painstakingly resurrected and many small houses with pools are rented out as holiday homes to people who want to escape from the busyness of everyday life. This hidden Hamlet is a real treasure with its cobbled streets and white washed houses with brightly coloured front doors, beautiful gardens and terracotta pathways leading through archways and down to the river bed filled with bright pink Oliander bushes. There are no shops or any other facilities here, just the one bar/restaurant owned and run by Antonio and his family. His son, Antonio Hijo runs the bar and also makes the scrummy ice cream with all natural fruit ingredients. I sampled both the blueberry and chirimollas which were both delicious. The home made summer fruits cake, served warm with cream was also mouth wateringly good as was the home made sweet wine made and proffered by El Zumbo himself. Here is the perfect spot for nature lovers who can while away the hours in this tranquil hamlet situated within a natural park.
So how do we find this hidden village? Its situated 5 kilometres from Frigiliana, 7 kilometres from Cómeta and 8 kilometres from Torrox. To get there you can leave from either Frigiliana or Torrox, take the mountain road and along the way you will see a little wooden sign that says Acebuchal. Do take a trip there as its just picture perfect and waiting for you to discover it with your eyes, your camera or you watercolours. The bar closes at 4pm so do make sure you get there in time to sit on the lovely terrace and sample homemade sweet wine, ice-cream and cakes!
Alcaucín
is situated on the western slopes of La Maroma at the entrance to the Natural Park of the Sierras de Tejeda, close to the spectacular Zafarraya gap, where you can step out of Malaga and into Granada province! The approximate translation of Al Cautín, now Alcaucin, is “the Arches” possibly named because of the aqueduct! At an altitude of 510 metres the village is approached either by driving up from Puente Don Manuel , across the valley through Venta Baja, or down from Zafarraya through Espino where the views are absolutely stunning, with the lower green mountains covered in pine trees, almond groves, vineyards and orchards, gradually rising up towards the rugged Boquete de Zafarraya which is often shrouded in cloud and the Colmenar ridge. The village itself is typical of the area with narrow winding streets, whitewashed, sugar cube, stone houses and interior courtyards brimming with beautifully coloured flowers. On entering the village one of the first points of interest is the fountain with five jets of fresh mountain water inviting you to stoop down and drink! Village life centres around the pretty town square now renamed the Plaza de la Constitución with its 18th Century Parish Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario and theTown Hall. The earthquake on Christmas day in 1884 badly affected this village with loss of life as well as the destruction of property, roads and trails and the alteration of subterranean streams and if that wasn´t enough there was heavy snowfall that year preventing much needed help and assistance to the villagers. There are several bars and restaurants which serve both local and international cuisine and from the terrace of Azafran Oasis ( open Thursday through Sunday) you can admire the views of Lake Viñuela. The eight areas that make up this municipality are Puente Don Manuel, Los Morales, Los Cortijillos, Las Monjas, Venta Baja, Venta Alta, El Pilarejo and El Espino. When you have finished your tour of the village you can walk back down the Paseo de las Barriadas and take your pick of any one of the decoratively tiled benches, which bear the names of these areas, to rest a while . If strolling through the village hasn´t been exercise enough then why not take the challenge of reaching the highest point of the Axarquía by climbing to the top of La Maroma! Don´t forget you camera!
Alfarnate
is one of the villages on the Route of Oil and Mountains and can be found in the far northwest of the Axarquia at a height of 925 metres and although as villages go its almost completely flat its surrounded by the rugged mountains of Jobo, Palomera and Enmedio which tower majestically above the green valley filled with olive and cherry trees. Dominating the landscape are craggy grey rocks dotted with scattered trees perilously clinging between mosses and ferns. Mighty oaks and pines vie for attention below the hills of Puerto de los Alhazores and Puerto del Sol, natural steps that connect this area with its surroundings.
Overlooked by the Cerro del Santo Cristo mountain, where outdoor mass is sometimes held at the sanctuary on top, the village is unique in its layout with three bridges straddling the Palancar stream. On one side is the Ermita de la Virgen de Monsalud, located in the upper quarter, a sixteenth century building with 3 arches mimicking the bridges and on the other side the Iglesia de Santa Ana, a 16th century building with a graceful Mudejar tower and oak beams supporting its natural wood ceiling. The Ayuntamiento was also built in the 16th century with its ubiquitous 3 arches dominating its facade.
Before leaving the area be sure to stop for a repast at La Antigua Venta de Alfarnate, a fully restored, 17th century inn, steeped in history, situated at the cross roads 2 kilometres from the village. As you are led behind the bar to be seated in the restaurant you can take a photo of the famous bandolero Luis Candelas in his prison cell, sitting with his head on his hand he seems to be reflecting on his misspent youth which ended on November 6th 1837 when he was garroted at the age of 33.
To drive to Alfarnate turn off the Colmenar to Velez-Malaga road (A356) at the Rio Gordo to Periana junction and drive in the direction of Periana (A7204) turn left for Alfarnatejo and continue up to Alfarnate (MA4102). The nicest way to return is towards Periana (MA4103) where the road winds its way down with spectacular views of the mountains, lake and distant coast.
Alfarnatejo
is situated on The Route Of Olive Oil and Mountains. The natives are called Alfarnateños and the town´s nickname is Palancos! Alfarnatejo is 50 klms from Malaga and 42 klms from the coast at Torre del Mar. The easiest route is to take the road between Rio Gordo and Periana and then turn left just before Mondron, driving through Pulgarín and up towards the fresh, clean mountain air at an altitude of 858 metres, where eagles and hawks fly circles in the sky beneath the so called Pyrenees of the south! The scenery is stunning and dramatic as the lower green mountains appear insignificant against the majestic Mount Chamizo and El Gallo both a mere 1.637 metres high! As remote as these mountains seem mans prescence has been here since the Neolithic era with archaeological remains found in the Sabar river gorges and the caves of Chamizo Morronquera in the Tajos de Vilo where Paleolithic drawings can be seen in the Cortijo de la Cueva. On entering the village one immediately steps back in time to when motorised transport was still unimagined and mules and goats mingled with humans in the flat wide streets. This is still a real farming community where laptops and mobile phones seem as alien as E.T! Nestling below the mountains is the Parque Municipal, Miguel Alba Luque, named after the last Republican mayor of the town. Here you can rest on a bench or exercise on the communal gym equipment. The 18th century parish church of Santo Cristo de Cabrilla can be found amidst the simple houses, a rectangular structure traditional to the period with its Mudejar style fired red brick tower and two naves separated by semicircular arches. Back to modern times we find cars parked in the village square, a Santander bank, the town hall, four tapas bars and a restaurant overlooking the park and mountains. If you visit the village on the first weekend in August you can join in the festivities of its main annual Fiesta of Gazpacho, sample this delicious cold soup and enjoy the Flamenco competition until the wee small hours, stamina permitting! o
Algarrobo
is named after the Carob Tree and it is also one of the villages visited on the route of Sun and Wine. Natives of the town are called Algarrobeños. You have to be careful when arranging to meet someone there. You must specify whether you mean Algarrobo Costa or Algarrobo Pueblo as you could end up waiting 3 klms in the wrong location! The Costa has a lovely promenade with bars and restaurants and many foreign residents can be seen cycling or power walking with their Nordic walking poles whilst fisherman bring their boats back to rest on the sand after an early morning fishing spree. Two different worlds rubbing along quietly together. As you drive into the Pueblo you can admire the new fountain on a circle of grass. There are plenty of parking spaces along the side and top end of the large attractive park and you can leave your car there while you stroll through the village. If you want a peaceful walk then make sure you don´t go at lunchtime when the village sounds like a race circuit as the residents come home from work with their tyres screeching on the hot tarmac. As the streets are not much wider than the cars you will spend most of your time ducking into doorways to avoid getting squashed! The winding streets become quite steep in places and little dogs will usually escort you as you continue on your way. Many of houses have beautiful plants and flowers in their doorways and balconies and the streets are bedecked with a panoply of colour. The Rio Algarrobo passes through the village and after a wet winter the sound of running water refreshes the soul. Like many Axarquia villages this one has prehistoric origins with historical evidence of human settlements from the Bronze Age. The main attraction is the parish church of Santa Ana with its bell tower, built in the 17th century but originally dating back to 1505 and in the municipal boundary are two watchtowers Torreladeada from the Islamic era and Torrenueva, a 16th century military fort. Interesting times to visit the pueblo are the patron saint´s feria on 20th January which begins with a procession from the chapel of San Sebastian to the parish church. During the second half of August when they hold the flamenco festival or at the beginning of September for the traditional bonfires and harvesting. After the grape treading the Verdiales de Algarrobo are danced in country houses where the musical instruments used are castanets, guitar and mortar and percussion using an empty anisette bottle. Algarrobo is situated 37 kilometres from Málaga
Almáchar
is situated 35 kilometres from Málaga and 20 minutes from the sea. Almáchar derives from the Arabic “Al Maysar” meaning “The Meadows” and the village used to be known as Almáchar de la Cruz because of the cross that stood on a nearby hill. The symbol is still incorporated in the towns coat of arms. Almáchar formed part of the “Four Villages” during Moslem occupation along with Cútar, El Borge and Moclinejo who were all under the protection of Comares. Following the re-conquest in 1487 their dependence on this town continued.
Almáchar is the capital of the muscatel grape area and the natives are called Almachareños who speak with a distinctive guttural and jerky dialect, which as a foreigner is quite difficult to understand. The entrance to the village is marked with a new fountain surrounding an enormous silver bunch of grapes standing majestically in its centre, surrounded by flowers. This is also the entrance to the enormous car park. It is possible on normal days to drive up the hill and into the village where there are a few places to park before taking a stroll through the steep, winding streets but on special days like the first Saturday of September when the village celebrates the Día del Ajoblanco, its impossible to get anywhere near the centre of the village and this car park is filled with coaches from all over Andalucía as people come to sample the delights of this famous cold garlic and almond soup. Officially designated a Festival of Tourist Interest this day starts at about 12pm and although people can be found walking in all directions there are signs with arrows to show you the direction of all the many stands handing out this delicious, free soup, complete with a bunch of grapes, a nice but important touch as the soup itself is a little sickly if you have too much!
Villagers believe in a myth that somewhere, hidden in a cave underneath one of the fountains near the river, guarded by a spirit, is a horde of jewels and gold, left behind in 1497 by the retreating Moors. There are many interesting places to visit as you stroll through the narrow streets such as the Jardines de El Forte, the Barrio de las Cabras and the Plaza del Santo Cristo with the Museo de la Pasa (raisin museum open every day from 9 – 1 and 6 - 8) which shows the way of life over the past 500 years demonstrating how the whole family were involved in harvesting the grapes with the fittest hauling the grapes to the drying beds while the older women sit patiently snipping the stems from the dried fruit. Every September the hills are alive with the sound of this snipping!
The 16th century church of San Mateo combines Gothic, Renaisance and Mudejar architecture. It was built in three columned naves with peaked arches. The ceiling structure is different on the central and outside naves with the central one hiding its structure beneath a panelled arch with a vault in the shape of a cross.
Villagers are friendly and helpful and love to chat and help you to explore their town, pointing out places of interest and showing you property available for sale. Each person you speak to will have their own idea of the price and be warned that the millions they are talking about are pesetas not euros, a currency they have still not come to grips with!
Almayate
is situated close to the much larger town of Torre del Mar. It has three different areas, Almayate Baja which is on the beach, hidden from view by sugar cane, amongst which can be found bars and restaurants. Here you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Jamaica or some shanty town except the sand is grey! The inhabitants are artistic and slightly eccentric as can be seen by their monuments and rock paintings. There is even a bonsai nursery hidden away behind one of the bars!
For beach lovers there are two campsites one of which is for naturists who can be seen strolling naked along the shore, soaking up the rays. Their chiringuito is for naturists only and if you arrive there with clothes on you will be asked to leave, textiles are not allowed and if you persist in walking on their part of the beach with anything on except your birthday suit you will be greeted with slow hand clapping until you leave! But don´t worry, if you are a textile there are plenty of other beaches and chiringuitos where everyone will be happy to see you comfortably dressed in bikini or shorts.
Almayate pueblo is on the other side of the coast road and here you can find restaurants, banks, shops and a school. There are huge craggy rocks above which tower one of the few remaining Osborne Bulls who can be seen from miles away. The main focal point of interest in the town is the 16th century church of Santa Ana with its attractive bells
Almayate was the main farming area in the Vélez-Málaga area during the Nasrid period where the most common agricultural system was irrigated crops. It was the only village that was granted a privilege for settling less than a league away from the coast after the conquest of the Catholic Monarchs, so it became known as the Seguro de Almayate
Higher up and across the motorway is Almayate Alto where there are many farmhouses and new villas with spectacular views of the coast.
Árchez
is a small village that sits at the foot of the Tejeda and Almijar on the Sayalonga river, we first discovered this village during our route of Mudejar. Its perfectly preserved 14th century red brick Minaret of a former Mosque, which can be seen from every point in the town, was declared a historic monument of national character and adjoins the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnacíon. The village fair in honour of this church takes place each year at the end of July or early August and lasts for 3 days. If you are hungry a good place to dine is the Posada Mesón Mudéjar where generous helpings of scrummy well priced food will make you think about booking into one of its five, carefully decorated guest rooms, so you can enjoy the wines without having to drive home.
The village has an altitude of 530 metres and lies 25 kilometres from the coast and 52 kilometres from Málaga. It is one of the smallest villages in the Axarquía with a population of about 425. Historically, grapes were its main crop and they are still an important part of its economy and landscape as are figs and almonds. As with many Axarquía villages, home made sweet wine is enjoyed by the locals who will press you to sample some, even taking you into their homes where you will be pressed to purchase honey, raisins, figs, almonds and of course the wine itself.
If you are looking for love the village legend states that if you touch the lizard, stuck to the bell in the church tower you will find love within the year! Apparently the poor lizard fell into the forge while the bell was being made and has been a kind of cupid ever since!
There are many different ways of driving to the village depending on which area you are starting from. If you are coming from the coast then drive inland from Algarrobo, up past Sayalonga, turning left to Árchez on quite a sharp bend! The road then winds down to the river and there is a lovely restaurant on the bridge overlooking a valley of orange trees. To enter the village turn right before the bridge and straight over the new traffic lights. There is usually somewhere to park outside the town hall and then you can walk the narrow, winding streets and discover its hidden treasures. From Vélez-Málaga take the Arenas road, drive past Corumbela and Árchez will unfold in front of you, or you can turn up towards Canillas de Aceituno and drive past Sedella and Salares, or drop down from Canillas de Albaida. Whichever way you decide to approach it from, once there you will delight in the peace and serenity of this jewel of a village.
Arenas
is on the Mudéjar route. It is situated east of Vélez-Málaga at 416 metres, under the ruins of the Moorish Bentomiz Fortress whose origin goes back to the Iberian era. It was occupied and modified by the Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans and is considered one of the three most important Muslim bastions in the Axarquía along with the castles of Comares and Zalia. Today you can still find some dungeons, wall fragments and towers.
In 1487 King Ferdinand the Catholic set up camp here to prepare for the siege and subsequent conquest of Vélez-Málaga and the town became know as Arenas del Rey (Arenas of the King)
As you drive from Vélez-Málaga along the winding road the terrain is notably less rugged than in other parts of the region with gentle hills full of almonds, olives and vines and of course new white villas built by foreigners who have made this area their home. As you round the last bend there is now brand new gym equipment on the left hand side, to encourage the villagers to keep fit. At the entrance to the village the town hall stands proudly in front of you like a gateway, its flags fluttering in the breeze and as you round the corner you can park outside the bar on the left and sample its delightful cuisine, the menu del dia being particularly good! Walking up from the road there is a colourful plaque with pictures of Arena´s most popular event, the Mule Fair which takes place in mid October and celebrates the animals virtues with branding and herding exhibitions as well as races, verdiales, food sampling and much more. From here flights of steps to the left and right lead to little squares with walls full of flowers and colourful pots. There are three distinct areas to the village, Barrio Alto where Blacksmiths, craftsmen and ceramists live, Barrio Bajo the more humble area and finally the Urban Centre with the 12th century church-mosque of Santa Catalina which was burnt to a cinder on the night of November 13th 1926 when a candle was left burning after a christening ceremony. The only part of the church that survived was the minaret but even that had to have a part removed because of the danger of it collapsing. The reconstruction took 4 years from 1941 to 1944 and the church celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2005.
When walking through the village make sure to wear sensible shoes as its easy to slip on the steep concrete slopes, carry a bottle of water to quench the thirst you will build up as you get lost in its maze of streets and a camera to capture the secrets that each new twist and turn reveals.
Benagalbon
is just along the coast from Rincon de la Victoria and inland two kilometres on the road leading to Moclinejo and Almáchar. It is only 12 kilometres from Málaga and very close to the 18 hole Añoreta golf course. One drives past Benagalbon, up and down on the way to somewhere else without ever going into it but once there its one of the prettiest villages with pots of flowers everywhere, a beautiful church, la iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria ,with Jesus Christ hanging over the congregation, a lovely square with a fountain and many bars and restaurants as well as the Museum of Popular Art and a drinking fountain inside an olive pot!
Rufo Festo Avieno, the 4th century geographer, described the area as the home of the temple to the goddess Noctiluca, or Moon Temple and further towards the coast, from the same period, can be found remains of a Roman Villa in Torre de Benagalbon. The Romans also built a fortress on El Castillon hill in Rincon de la Victoria which was used by the Muslims until the Catholic Monarchs captured it. The final expulsion of the Muslims in 1570 and the frequent attacks from the sea by the Berber pirates left this area practically uninhabited in the 16th century and the few who decided to remain settled around the old Benagalbon Farm thus founding the village. The name derives from the Arabic Bena Galb-un which means The Tribe of Galb-un . From being almost uninhabited until the late 19th century this area became the most important population centre. The look out tower at Torre del Benagalbon is still in quite good condition and was part of the defensive system provided in the late middle and early modern ages to give warning of the numerous invasions from the sea.
Modern day Benagalbon hosts its annual Fiesta and contest of Pandas de Verdiales during September with various bands playing different music in the same square! Once the prize has been won they bands go off to different locations and continue playing, so you can follow your favourite and enjoy the music ´til the wee small hours!
Benajarafe
isn´t a village as such, more a stretch of coastline located 14 kilometres from Málaga between Rincon de la Victoria and Torre del Mar. As you drive from the latter towards Málaga with the sea on your left the difference in terrain is extraordinary. Torre del Mar has numerous chiringuitos and beaches filled with sun beds and then from Almayate on the beaches are bare except for Spaniards who take their tents and go for the day. Just the beach, some sugar cane and the sea! Then suddenly the seaside resort of Benajarafe changes everything with its oasis of palm trees and banana plants, beach beds, chiringuitos and even a Bay Watch style lifeguard look out post! You can find everything on this beach including beach buggies which are parked up by the old bus station, now enjoying a new lease of life. There are bars and restaurants on both sides of the coast road and the 18th century lookout tower, named the Torre Moya or Torre Gordo (Fat Tower) stands silently watching from above, now useless and perhaps remembering its duty long ago when it warned the towns people of pirate attacks. Nowadays there are different types of pirates about, professional thieves who will grab your bag before you even notice its gone! So do be careful and keep your car doors locked when stopping at lights.
Sadly the 3 date palms that once stood majestically next to the bus station have been gobbled up by the evil red palm weevil, having eaten its way through the date palms in Egypt its now set to destroy those in Spain and it seems that nothing can be done about it. Only the fan palms seem to remain unaffected.
Although its now all fresh and modern, Benajarafe has been inhabited since the Palaeolithic era. In fact it is believed that the Greek colony Mainake used to be somewhere around this area although the exact location is still being seached. Archaelogical remains have been discovered next to the Velez river further along the coast at Torre del Mar. Benajarafe became a medieval farmstead after the Moors had settled there and named it.
Modern day Benajarafe is a good place to visit if you want fun on the beach or simply to enjoy its many bars and restaurants, there is also a very good garden centre that sells beautiful ceramic pots and well as plants and flowers.
Benamargosa
is a lively village that stands at the heart of the Vélez-Málaga region and dates back to the 15th century to the time of the Moriscos, Moorish converts to Christianity. As you drive past Axarquia airport the scenery changes to a lush, tropical paradise, resplendently verdant with avocado and mango trees vying for attention between lemon and orange groves. The mostly dry river bed winds its way past Triana village until it comes to Benamargosa bridge, Puente de los diez ojos, so named because of the 10 arches or eyes, its hard to imagine that only 6 years ago the water actually came over the top of this bridge after a few days of particularly heavy rainfall which flooded most of the lower part of the village. Usually dry the river bed is used as a road for the farmers who work the land on either side and the many residents who have houses dotted along it from Triana to Cútar. Most days you find goats, mules, donkeys and horses lazily passing along it. Just opposite the bridge are lovely gardens with an avenue of trees and flowers, a central fountain featuring 4 naked girls, a childrens play area and a municipal swimming pool with sunbathing area, childs pool and cafeteria. The annual Fiesta del Campo erects a stage close to the bridge where performers entertain all night and visitors are offered Baticates, the local drink of avocado, cinnamon and a host of secret ingredients, followed later by an enormous paella with beer and wine.
Also in the lower part of the village is the Church of St. Mary of the Incarnation where baptisms took place as early as 1546. This church has an interesting piece of architecture where a huge archway joins the church to a neighbouring house!
As you walk onwards and upwards through the village there are several long straight streets and other more narrow ones that weave their way across. There is a lovely square where the old town hall used to be with a pretty fountain and some very old houses some of which have been beautifully renovated. Higher up are the gardens of San Sebastián with stone steps leading up and through a narrow passageway dividing two houses, you can rest in these gardens as the town hall have thoughtfully provided several benches.
Attached to the new town hall is a 24 hour health clinic, a little further on is the village school and there are plenty of bars and restaurants that serve healthy, local cuisine. This village is on the route of sun and avocados and is 37 kilometres from Málaga at a height of 100 metres. Market day is Wednesday from 9am until 2pm and is held in the car park by the bridge and even under the bridge!
Benamocarra
is situated 33 kilometres from Málaga and just 9 kilometres from the coast, the closest beach being the naturist beach at Almayate. The town is of Arabic origin and its name derived from Banu Mukarram which means The Tribe of Mukarram who were quite possibly Berbers. Benamocarra was conquered by Ferdinand the Catholic after the capture of Vélez-Málaga in 1487 and the following years proved to be an uneasy time for both Christians and Moslems. After the expulsion of the Moriscos (the Muslim converts to Christianity) in the latter part of the 16th century Christians returned to the town from Antequera, Estepa, Puente Genil and other locations.
The lovely Gothic style church of Santa Ana which was built in the 16th century has a Mudejar tower and is quite majestic inside with its high wooden beamed ceiling and the streets surrounding it are typical of the area, narrow, steep, white washed and full of plant pots brimming with colourful flowers and plants. All the usual facilities are provided with many shops hidden away in houses, banks, hairdressers, bars, restaurants and a health centre. The village square has been changed recently and the once beautiful fountain which was in the middle of the roundabout has been dismantled and there is now a more modern water feature with a statue and the road has been blocked on one side to provide a pedestrian area.
There are many foreigners living in and around this lively village and as I stopped to take a photo in a typical Spanish square an english voice said I´ll just get out of your way! The locals are extremely friendly and welcome us guirri´s into their towns and their homes.
Benamocarra boasts a Music and Culture Festival with free food and drink to tempt locals and strangers alike and the streets are full of performers playing different types of music from traditional, with groups dressed in medieval costume to popular and jazz and even classical being played in the church. Its certainly a treat for all the senses and a festival that should not be missed. There is another famous festival where the younger members of the community dress up as witches and goblins and in the springtime the annual Romeria where all the townsfolk suddenly appear to have acquired a horse and they all show off their riding skills, the men dressed in typical Spanish equestrian outfits with tight black pants and fresh white shirts and waistcoats topped off by a large black hat, quite often sitting behind them is the girl of their choice sporting a poker dotted frilly Spanish dress. You don´t often see a Spanish female riding astride in trousers, this is reserved for the foreign jinete´s who not only ride alongside the men but even enter the equestrian competitions sometimes even winning a prize! Olé!
Cajiz
is a small village situated just 27 kilometres from Malaga and 5 kilometres from the coast. This village is the first one you go past on the way up the hill to the larger village of Iznate and is often bypassed without a second glance. On taking time out to discover the place I wondered at the eclectic style of housing which ranges from poor ruins in desperate need of reforming to grand modern structures towering over the modest square. Even the 18th century parish church of San José is tucked away amongst trees and ruins and looks as if no-one has painted or cared for it for many a year! This village, like many in the area, is steep with little dead end streets culminating in a mass of colour and flowering pots outside closed front doors with little dogs lying stretched out in the shade. One street has its name rather quaintly hand painted on a wall. There are a couple of good bars and restaurants where you can sit and chat to the locals or just enjoy good food and drink.
Caleta de Vélez
is a small coastal resort situated next to Torre del Mar, approximately 30 klms from Malaga. This Caleta, or Bay, of Velez has a lovely stretch of beach and a small fishing port which has grown in recent years and is now home to some luxury yachts which can be hired from this busy Marina. Take time out after eating in one of the many restaurants to throw some bread to the fish and watch them all come jumping up to grab a piece! To get to the much busier town of Torre del Mar you can stroll along the beach, roller blade or cycle down the paseo de maritimo or even swim!
BENAQUE
This small village is a hop, skip and a jump away from the larger village of Macharaviaya. There is even a 2 kilometre walking track between the 2 villages called the Ruta de Salvador Rueda after the Hamlet´s most famous son , the poet, who was born here on December 3rd 1857. If you have never heard of Salvador Rueda a visit to Benaque will quickly put that right! On entering the village the road is called Calle de Salvador Rueda, the school is called Colegio de Salvador Rueda, the bar is called Salvador Rueda and the house he was born in bears a plaque showing he was born there and outside stands a bronze bust with his face. This simple house of his birth is a fitting place for the self taught son of a labourer who himself called it a poor house.
Apart from the enormous church of Virgen del Rosario, a brick building that dominates the village and is so huge that the only place to photograph it is 2 kilometres away! there is very little else to see. Salvador Rueda has certainly left his presence in this sleepy Hamlet as his poems have left their mark on the history of Spanish arts, he being their first modernist poet. The hometown he loved and visited so often during his lifetime deeply influenced his poetry:
La campiña cuando sales
se inunda de luz alegre,
y las hojas de las ramas
baten las palmas al verte.The countryside when you'reis filled with joyous light,leaves and branchesclapping to see you
De dos montañas distintas
corren al mar dos arroyos,
y en el camino se juntan
para no caminar solos.Two different mountainstwo streams flow into the sea,and on the road meetnot to walk alone
To find Benaque turn off the autovia following signs for Macharaviaya, after 11 kilometres just before the last turn on the road you can see the village in the distance, Benaque at an altitude of 240 metres a little higher up with the church standly proudly in its centre and then Macharaviaya two kilometres below it.
Canillas de Aceituno
is situated 17 kilometres from its capital, Vélez-Málaga, in the north east of the region at an altitude of 650 metres above sea level. There are three ways of reaching the village, either from Arenas and then turning left before Archez, Algarrobo then turn left for Archez and right for Salares and carry on or the way I find easiest is to turn right off the road leading from Vélez-Málaga to Viñuela ( A-335 )and its just a 10 kilometre road up to the village. As you drive up you can see Canillas nestled amongst the slopes of the Sierra de Tejeda and the great Maroma (the roof of Malaga) with its peak at 2,065 metres! The landscape here is absolutely spectacular in all weather. On a bright, clear sunny day you can see both the pantano at Viñuela and the sea sparkling below you but on a dark cloudy day with mist settling on the mountain tops the scenery becomes mysterious and the hills seem to whisper the secrets of their traumatic past when both Phoenicians and Romans passed through this way long before the Arabic era, the Moorish rebellion and Franco. A question so many people ask about these mountain pueblos is why, when there were no roads, did people build in such high, remote spots? There are many reasons but probably the main one being water! Here in this area for example, people come from far and wide for the healing powers of the natural mountain spring water which is said to prevent illness!
The name Canillas de Aceituno is said to have its origins from the Arabic azzeitun, meaning oil, but then on further investigation I discovered the name comes from the Latin Canillae, meaning zone of cane plantations! Plus the Arab word Azeytuni for woven and dyed silks. Under Christian rule the silk trade thrived here and the cloth was exported from Granada. Rather a shame that the offices for controlling this trade, The House of Tithes, which today is uninhabited, became in the 20th century a tavern and almond ware-house! The silk trade seemingly more romantic and prosperous!
Today you can easily miss the village itself as there is now a bypass below which leads directly to the outdoor, municipal swimming pool, but if you continue into the village and find a parking space you can wander through the narrow streets and discover its charm. The impressive 16th century Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, a Gothic-Mudejar style building, looms up amidst the houses and the Town Hall in the Plaza de la Constitución stands proudly next to the Casa de los Diezmos (House of Tithes) which although now slightly crumbling shows some fine Mudéjar architecture with its white tower and double blind arches. Luckily this building survived the earthquake which one Christmas day during 1884 destroyed many houses and killed 6 people.
There are many bars and restaurants serving delicious local cuisine and in springtime there is a chance to eat your way through thousands of kilos of black pudding during the Dia de la Morcilla!
Canillas de Albaida (pronounced Alb eye da )
It is part of the Sun and Wine route and is situated 52 kilometres from Malaga and 24 kilometres from Vélez-Málaga. The name Albaida means white and was named by the arabs who founded the village in the 13th century, because according to legend the town was surrounded by white flowers!
Situated on the Sierra Almijara mountain range on the borders of the provinces of Malaga and Granada the village is surrounded by high mountains where goats and eagles are frequently seen as well as wild boar! Here the fresh mountain air is filled with the scent of pine and oak and nearby is the Acantilados de Maro Nature Reserve with its gorse, rosemary and the increasingly rare sea lavender.
Like most of the villages in the Axarquía the streets are narrow and steep and cars not only look out of place but have problems fitting through. Different coloured paint on the house walls about hip height a legacy of bumps and grinds!
Important monuments worth a visit are Nuestra Señora de la Expectacion ( our lady of expectation church) which is in the village square and the Santa Ana Hermitage built at the highest point of the village with the most spectacular views. Opposite the town and just past the municipal swimming pool is the San Antón Hermitage which was built in the 17th century. It stands alone and quietly humble with its simple bell tower but has an allure that makes you stop and visit a while.
If hunger takes hold while you are there do sample the local dish of Migas, made with both corn and wheat and also try the fried pumpkin. To tempt your tastebuds further the local Moscatel wine is excellent.
To get to Canillas de Albaida you can either go on from Cómpeta, up from Archez or down from El Fogarate.
Chilches
is a small village situated between Benajarafe and Rincon de la Victoria about 12 kilometres from Malaga. There is a beach area but the village itself is inland just over the autovia and up in the hills. Its name comes from the Roman Cicer, because of the chickpea plantations in the area and through a Muslim invasion then became known as Chilches.
Chilches used to have two Towers but around 1492 after the conquest of Granada they were divided between noblemen who fought in the battle, amongst them the Marquis Garci Fernández Manrique and the Count Manrique de Lara. During one of the battles in the area the inland tower was destoyed leaving just the coastal one which we can see today
During the 19th century the Phylloxera Plague wiped out the vineyards in the area. Up until then Chilches had been a fishing village but after the devastation of the grapes the economy was ruined and Chilches had to depend on the large village of Macharaviaya to support it.
Between 1821 and 1868 Chilches had its own town hall but on August 31st it became governed by Vélez-Málaga which it still is today along with Almayate, Benajarafe, Caleta de Vélez, Lagos, Mezquitilla, Torre del Mar, Valle-Niza, Cajiz, Trapiche and Triana. The last mayor of Chilches was Gabriel Galvez Bustamante
The church of Immaculate Conception, built in the 17th century, sits proudly in the Plaza de Constitution, next to the Deputy Mayor´s Office, La Tenecia de Alcadia and is worth a visit, its difficult to park there and the streets around it are quite narrow, so probably best to park further away and take a stroll up through the village.
Chilches Playa is a long stretch of beach with very little on it except a small lawned area with palm trees and a life guards look out tower. There are a couple of good sea food restaurants and a kiosko for ice-cream and drinks. Most days during summer the beach is filled with Spaniards vacationing and sitting in the shade under their gazebo tents or multi coloured sun parasols. Its a lively scene and the smell of fresh fish cooking lures you in from the road.
Colmenar
Colmenar, the capital of the Montes de Málaga, lies in the most westerly point of the Axarquía, 30 kilometres from Málaga and the coast. It is 700 metres above sea level and is part of the Ruta del Aceite y los Montes. Although populated since the Neolithical period Colmenar is one of the younger pueblos as it wasn´t until after the Christian King´s conquest that it was established and didn´t become an independent township until 1777. The name comes from Colmena (Spanish for beehive) after a local honey producing Estate of the same name. Even today you can buy local honey and there is a honey museum in the centre of the town that is on the list of places of interest in the Axarquía to receive money for a major spruce up to attract tourism. The museum is to receive 355,412 euros for its thematic equipment. The towns coat of arms features a haycock with 7 bees buzzing around it.
At the top of the village on a hill overlooking the whole area is the magnicent hermitage of La Santisima Virgen de la Candelaria. Built in the 17th century it is consecrated to the patron saint of Colmenar and became a historical local monument on July 4th 1982. Legend has it that it was erected by a group of sailors from the Canary Islands who survived a storm and built it to show their gratitude. Lower down in the centre of the town is the 16th century parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción with its Moorish-style architecture, three naves separated by semicircular arches on square pillars.
The towns festive calendar starts on February 2nd with the festival in honour of the town´s patron saint, the Virgen de la Candaleria but one of the most popular festivals is the Dia de la Pipa which takes place on May 3rd when all the townsfolk head to the countryside to eat bread rolls filled with hard boiled eggs! and of course to drink and be merry!
The easiest way to get to Colmenar from Málaga is to take the autovia towards Sevilla/Granada and turn off at Casabermeja where one of the few remaining Osborne Bulls stands majestic on the hill in front of you. However, the most attractive route is via the Montes de Málaga on the Carretera de Colmenar, through the pine forests with the road winding higher and higher and over itself via 2 tunnels. There are a few Venta´s on route where you can stop to admire the view, take in the smell of the pines and generally have a good, relaxing time.
Comares
Comares is probably the most talked about and most seen (from afar!) village in the Axarquía. From almost wherever you are you can catch site of Comares, it sits right on top of the mountain some 735 metres above sea level, 28 kilometres from Málaga and 24 kilometres from Vélez-Málaga. Steeped in history and like many Axarquía villages the Arab influence is very obvious, at least 3 streets have original Arab arches . The name originates from the arab word for castle, Qumarix. Due to its excellent location it was one of the Axarquía´s principle defense strongholds. It became the regional headquarters for Cútar, El Borge, Almáchar and Moclinejo during the 11th century and by the 15th century when Vélez fell to the Christians the last Moslem governor Mohammed el Jabis tried in vain to stop the invasion but in late 1487 Comares too was taken. In Calle de Perdon ( Street of Forgivness) 30 Moorish families living in the village were baptised!
As you walk through modern day Comares you cannot help notice blue ceramic footprints with arab motifs (crafted, I am told, by the woman of the village!) these footprints lead through the narrow streets and when you see 2 footprints together they will be in front of a monument or a colourful ceramic plaque inviting you to stop and take notice! One of the interesting places these footprints lead you to is the Plaza de los Verdiales, a monument to the panda de verdiales , not the black and white furry bear but a band of local men playing lively music. Comares even has its own style of verdiales and a statue of a typically dressed band member stands proudly in the square. One of the village shops is also in this square selling everything from bread to boots, milk to mouse traps! Being so high, the village has everything you need, chemist, doctors, municipal swimming pool, free internet etc.
From this Plaza if you carry on walking up hill on Calle Iglesias you will come to the church of La Encarnación, built in 1505 using floor plans of an old mosque it has an eight sided tower. Whilst stopping to take a photo if you find yourself a bit peckish don´t worry because out of a nearby house will appear, like magic, a local woman who will drag you back in to sell you honey, raisins, almonds, and sweet homemade wine. Before you know it you will be several euros worse off but ladened with these local goodies.
Wherever you go in Comares you will have stunning views. From the main square at the mirador you can see the villages of Cútar, Iznate, Benamocarra, Benamargosa, Vélez-Málaga, Torre del Mar, Canillas de Aceituno, Alcaucin and Puente Don Manuel. From the back of the village you can see the majestic rugged mountains of Jobo, Palomera and Enmedio and the village of Periana. There are plenty of walking routes mapped out for you through the countryside if you still feel energetic or if the steep streets have taken their toll stop a while in the beautiful courtyard of El Molino de los Abuelos in the main square, or take lunch at the mayors bar, the Atalaya (Watch Tower) where you can enjoy a fabulous, inexpensive meal while taking in the fantastic views down to the coast. To really enjoy the views make sure you go on a clear day, in summer the skies are often hazy so autumn or winter is probably best.
To get to Comares you can drive up from Vélez.Málaga and Benamargosa, or leave the coast road earlier from Málaga and drive up through Olías which is a much more winding road but has spectacular views.
Cómpeta
Cómpeta, pronounced by stressing the Com and not the Peta, is a high mountain village situated in the foothills of Sierra Almijara. The road to it is long and winding and as you drive onwards and upwards past lorries hurtling past you at breakneck speed you just know that when you get there this village will have everything you need to sustain you as you are not going to want to keep driving up and down 18 kilometres to the coast every day! Its on the route of sun and wine and has a vast population of some 3.600 people from about 35 different nationalities. A kind of United Nations of the mountains!
You can drive all the way up to the central square, la plaza Almijara, where there are plenty of bars, restaurants and shops sitting submissively below the Church of la Asuncion with its unique belfry tower, a reference point on the Cómpeta skyline. It seems to rise right up through the clouds as you stand below to admire it. Walking through the arch to the Paseo de las Tradiciones you find a much needed shady terrace with public toilets and the history of the village shown in a series of ceramic murals. You can´t park your car there but you can drop people off who don´t want to have to walk up the steep cobbled streets leading to it.
Other places of interest are the Hadriano Museum in the oldest part of town, which is just a house with a mill inside! The Chapel of San Cayetano which sits behind the museum on San Sebastián street and in turn leads to the quieter end of town, the cemetery! There is also a wine museum that sells different types of local wine, produce and handicrafts as well as searching food and drinks.
August 15th is the Noche del Vino, the annual festival where free drinks can be sampled throughout the streets which are alive with Flamenco and other dance and music. In the morning there are demonstrations showing the treading of the grapes followed by lunch of migas and sardines with salad. Traditionally the villagers leave the town on this day to go to their country houses to harvest their grapes, placing them on enormous drying beds and turning them in the harsh sunlight into raisins. Once sufficiently baked the grapes are then collected and the stalks snipped off, rendering them ready for consumption. If you listen you can hear the hills are alive with the sound of snipping in late September. The leaving party as the villagers departed for their finca´s was made an official fiesta by the local council in 1975. We have missed it for this year but its worth making a note for your diary next year as its one festival you should attend at least once to enjoy the history and tradition of this vast mountain village.
The best way to get to Cómpeta is either up from Algarrobo, past Sayalonga and continue up, or up from Torrox Pueblo and then turn left (this way is usually not as busy! )
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